A Restaurant Review: Thai Diner
Playing food critic for a day.
In 2024, during a food writing course, I was tasked with the assignment to write a restaurant review. Though not my usual writing beat, I leaned into the challenge and now, I’m sharing the results with you. Since writing my review of Thai Diner, I’ve returned with a group of five, and I have to say, it didn’t disappoint, it might have even been better than before. If you haven’t been yet, consider this your nudge.
Note: In April 2024, Thai Diner operated as a no-reservations spot (or perhaps that was just the case for that particular Saturday evening?), but they’ve since embraced Resy for bookings.
"Of course, they don’t take reservations," I muttered to my sister, scrolling through the menu online with equal parts excitement and resignation. Thai Diner swiftly claimed its spot as Nolita’s latest darling. Nestled in Lower Manhattan, it was the kind of place everyone flocked to, sharing snapshots of themselves framed by its gloriously maximalist lanterns and unapologetically bold decor. We decided to arrive like the early birds, showing up at 4:45 p.m. to put our names down, and luck was on our side; we waited only seven minutes before we were ushered to our table.
Bundled in our coats, we chose to sit in the enclosed patio warmed by the glow of heat lanterns. The tables were tucked so close together that, even before the food filled our bellies, we had to suck in to squeeze into our seats. We ordered a spread: Phat See Ew, Stuffed Cabbage Tom Khaa, Som Tum Papaya Salad, two Thai iced teas and a Siam Fizz. Our waitress did barely enough to make us happy, but we were not expecting much; somehow, Thai Diner’s allure promised enough to let that slide.
When the food arrived, each dish struck us like bright, singular notes. The flavors ricocheted: tangy, chewy, crispy, savory. It was a melody of textures, brightened by sweet sips of Thai iced tea that washed down each bite. We knew, even before the last greasy spoon scraped the plate, that this was a meal we’d revisit. The springy Phat See Ew rice noodles, paired with the rich savoriness of stir-fried beef short rib, are reason enough to make the trip. Instead of the Som Tum Green Papaya Salad, I might have saved room for an order of their roti or the Banana Thai Rum Pudding. Still, the salad added a refreshing brightness to our spread. Substitutions for vegans, vegetarians and those with food allergies are thoughtfully included in every section of the menu. It’s hard to imagine making a wrong choice here, the only misstep would be arriving without an appetite.
There’s something almost annoying about a place that lives up to its hype, yet here we were, already planning our next visit. As we lingered, my sister asked me to capture her mid-sip of the Siam Fizz, her pinky lifted. This would be her new dating profile picture, a portrait of effortless cool against a backdrop of vivid, layered decor.
We asked for the check, exchanging a satisfied look as we glanced at the total. For New York, a bill hovering around $100 pre-tip felt like a rare bargain, and we left feeling as though we’d managed to unearth a small luxury at a reasonable price.
Rising to leave, I didn’t quite have the grace to suck in my stomach as I maneuvered out of my chair and accidentally nudged someone else’s platter of Thai Disco Fries (pictured below). They laughed it off, scooping up the fries with abandon. It was as though everyone in the room shared an unspoken understanding: Thai Diner was irresistible and we were all happily caught in its spell.
Beautifully written! I would have loved to have been there with you.
I can’t wait revisit it! 😊😋