Food on the Move

They Want the Flavors but Not the People

Photo by Alex Hudson

“As the empire selectively swings its drawbridge open for some, others must climb in uninvited. Over barbed fences and across miles of sand. Over bureaucratic red tape and across seas of hypocrisy.”

- Walé Oyéjidé, “After Migration: The Once and Future Kings,” The Good Immigrant USA

Waking up without a simmering sense of rage and confusion about the state of the world is becoming increasingly difficult. My family straddles two countries, Turkey and the U.S., both of which are gripped by political turbulence. But let’s be honest, the unease doesn’t stop there. The entire globe seems to be running on a steady diet of outrage these days.

I don't usually discuss such topics in this newsletter. I prefer to have them over a shared meal or face-to-face. But today, I need to let this one out.

Taste Jo Food is and always will be, a place where I advocate for the dignity of immigrants, refugees, asylum seekers, those who cross borders in search of safety, opportunity or simply a life where they can breathe freely.

Now, you might be thinking, “Jo, we come here to talk about food, not politics, not migration, not about the refugee crises.” And you’d be right, Taste Jo Food is about food. But I can’t separate food from the people who cook it, carry it and spread it across the world.

Migration patterns since the 1500s

There is a growing rhetoric of fear and division toward people from other places. This pattern is not unique to the U.S. but exists across Europe, Africa, Asia and beyond, persisting throughout history. Unfortunately, there is something deeply ingrained in human nature about drawing lines between who belongs and who doesn’t. However, in today's world, we should be capable of rising above these primal instincts and recognizing how the media influences our emotions. Moreover, especially when it comes to food and flavor, we cannot condemn people while simultaneously enjoying the cultural contributions they bring.

I can’t think about the beloved tacos al pastor without remembering Lebanese immigrants who brought their shawarma technique to Mexico. I can’t savor a comforting börek without thinking of the waves of migration that shaped the Ottoman Empire. Every bite tells a story of movement, resilience and adaptation.

I recently saw an Instagram post by Mediterranean Commune about this very concept. “Despite the clear benefits of cultural exchange through food, societies often express fear and resistance towards human migration. Historical and modern anxieties about migrants disrupting national identity overlook the fact that cultural diversity, including in cuisine, strengthens communities. Just as people eagerly adopt foreign ingredients and dishes, they should recognize that human migration brings innovation, resilience and social enrichment.”

“The irony is that while many societies fear immigrants, they wholeheartedly accept the flavors, traditions and agricultural contributions these migrants bring.”

- Mediterranean Commune

So, while policies and processes are fair game for debate and absolutely should be discussed and refined, the basic dignity and respect owed to those who leave their families and everything they know in search of safety and hope are not up for negotiation. For most, this might seem like common sense, but sometimes, even the obvious needs to be said out loud.

Under the current U.S. administration, the past few weeks have been devastating for those in the process of legally immigrating, a process my husband and I have also had to navigate, though under very different circumstances. Even in the best of cases, the U.S. immigration system is anything but easy. It demands years of waiting, extensive background checks, financial resources and an extraordinary amount of patience and hope. And even after gaining approval to enter the country, a whole new set of challenges begins.

Statue of Liberty at a taco shop holding a burrito, Photo by KC Welch

Recently, individuals who had nearly completed this arduous vetting process and had been legally granted entry saw their lives suddenly thrown into turmoil. Adding insult to injury, they have also been vilified.

Meanwhile, “Taco Tuesdays” carry on, vats of hummus sit on most Americans' refrigerator shelves and our Uber Eats order just delivered takeout from the Indian restaurant down the street. The fear of immigrants has never been greater, nor has the insatiable appetite for the flavors, spices and ingredients they bring with them. So yes, this is a food newsletter. But food has never existed in a vacuum and neither have the people who make it.

“Recognizing the value of both food and people shaping societies can help foster a more inclusive and appreciative global community.”

- Mediterranean Commune

I’d love to hear your thoughts! Have you noticed this happening around you? How do you see the flavors, culinary traditions and agricultural contributions of immigrants in your everyday life?

Publication: March 2025, Issue #12