Global Plates: How Food Reflects Migration, Refugee Stories and Evolving Identities

Plus a recipe for coconut, date and walnut popsicles (scroll down)!

For the past six months, I’ve been balancing two worlds that are close to my heart—working at Christopher Kimball's Milk Street in the Cooking School while also holding a full-time writing role at a nonprofit. My weeks are undeniably full, but this duality allows me to navigate both passions with purpose. At the nonprofit, my focus is on advocating for refugees, immigrants and those facing immense challenges both domestically and internationally. Meanwhile, at Milk Street, I get to celebrate the rich diversity of global cuisine, helping students connect with different cultures through the food they create and enjoy. Though these two roles may seem worlds apart, they are actually bound by shared, powerful themes more than one might imagine.

One of my favorite parts of working at Milk Street is collaborating with chefs and cookbook authors, listening to the stories and inspirations that fuel their creativity. Nearly 50% of our culinary guests come from cultures and regions beyond the culinary mainstream, such as Hungary, Peru, Malta and Kenya. Beyond moderating these recipe-filled virtual classes and workshops, I immerse myself in their stories, language and culture. This ensures that both the students and I leave with a deeper connection to the person behind the dish. While we explore the technicalities of their recipes, we also delve into the anthropology of the people and cuisines we're learning about, weaving culture and food into a shared experience.

Just last week, we had the pleasure of hosting Sandra Gutierrez for an online evening class. Sandra, fresh off the release of her book Latinísimo: Home Recipes from the Twenty-One Countries of Latin America, took us on a culinary journey through Peru. With each dish, she wove stories of migration, ingredient exchanges and the vibrant fusion that defines modern-day Peruvian cuisine. It was a celebration of how food becomes a living testament to the blending of cultures, history and flavors. Speaking of, have you ever heard of Chifa?

I left with a richer understanding, greater empathy and a broader context—tools that not only sharpen my ability to write and advocate for those facing hardship, but also shape me into a kinder, more globally aware person. Few grasp this concept more deeply than Reem Kassis, a Palestinian food writer born and raised in Jerusalem. Her father hails from a Palestinian Christian family in Galilee, while her mother comes from a Palestinian Muslim family in Jaljulya.

Food often unveils deeper truths about migration, politics and power than we might expect. As Kassis explains, “If you focus exclusively on the nation as the identifying factor for a cuisine, you miss out on the cross-cultural influence that happens across these borders. Whereas if you appreciate the fact that cuisine is porous and transcends these borders, but at the same time you respect its role in defining identity, then you can have your cake and eat it too” (National Post).

In our interconnected global world, food embodies migration, evolving ideas, the experiences of refugees and a deep sense of identity. For now, my weeks are busy, but I’m finding a surprising sense of alignment. If you are curious about joining me in a few Milk Street classes or workshops, feel free to comment below or write to me directly on my Instagram: @Hasat_by_Jo.

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Coconut Milk, Walnut and Date Popsicle

Before the world dives headfirst into a season of pumpkin bread, cozy soups and warmly spiced drinks, I’m sharing one last taste of summer: coconut, date and walnut popsicles.

Salih’s late August birthday arrived with a few dietary considerations—he was avoiding added sugar as part of his ongoing efforts to reduce inflammation. This shifted how we celebrated since cake was off the table. Recently, I caught Eden Grinshpan whipping up these coconut, pecan and halva popsicles and they sparked an idea to try something similar.

Coconut Milk, Date and Walnut popsicles

Ingredients:

• 2 cups of coconut milk

• 8-10 dates, pitted

• 1 cup of walnuts

• pinch of salt

Process:

With just four simple ingredients, this is more a playful experiment than a recipe. Just toss everything into the blender and mix until fully incorporated. Pour the creamy goodness into these molds and let the freezer do its magic. Check out the final product on IG here.